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Author Topic: Video/game settings and you.
robertom2002
Seņor Nugget

Posts: 171

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105: November 30, 2016, 11:46:08 PM »
The interview was an awesome read, and it's very cool to see that we still have one of the original t2 developers still responding to tribes 2 related stuff. I hope they come back to play their own game once in a while.

Blakhart
Juggernaught
Posts: 1616

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106: May 27, 2017, 06:27:59 PM »
A dev answers some burning Tribes questions;

Q; Always wondered what the file extensions in Tribes meant. Such as .cs, .dso, perhaps you could fill in the details?
A; I don't recall exactly what the extensions meant -- .cs was for script files, .dso might have been dynamix script object or something like that.


Q; Hi again and thanks for the reply on the file extensions. Another burning question for you; is it spoken "dynamics" or "dyna-mix"?
A; Dynamics
robertom2002
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107: May 28, 2017, 04:42:08 PM »
Do the same dynamix people who worked on T2 also work on Midair? Who was the game designer?

Blakhart
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108: May 28, 2017, 10:53:33 PM »
Do the same dynamix people who worked on T2 also work on Midair? Who was the game designer?

MA is made by a separate group of devs.
https://www.playmidair.com/press/
Blakhart
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109: June 12, 2017, 06:06:17 PM »
A word on keeping backup parts and/or systems;

The other day while trying to play T2, my gtx280 went into "split screen" mode, one side of the screen had a different camera view from that of the left. This wasn't the only time the card had farted, with obvious artifacting taking place under no load conditions making me suspect the end was near for my elderly 280. For those inexperienced with such, this is a example of artifacting;
https://mlambert890.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/8800gtx_video_artifact_02.jpg
  Sometimes a driver or other software issue can cause the hardware to seem corrupted but in this case a driver revision didn't help at all, the card was on its last pixel. Good thing I had kept the gtx260 the 280 had replaced, so the 260 was installed and driver replaced with little to no apparent performance hit at least in t1 and t2. Ta is another matter where the greater total memory on the card is a great asset but the 250 plays it well enough. Ta was where the first artifacts became apparent but at the time I was unsure if the lockup was vid card or network related, in ta if the net farts the system basically freezes for a time. I could have gone with a newer vid card but the rest of the gaming pc's parts are 2008 era, however a more power efficient vid card would be nice to have. The 260 series are power hogs.

  So, moral of the story; keep spare parts or a spare system on hand for when your pc breaks - because it will. Like cars, it's almost a rule that if you have one you need two for when the first breaks down and leaves you somewhere.
Blakhart
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110: October 18, 2017, 07:10:32 PM »
A word on mouse repair;

Lately my most recently purchased meece was starting to double click via the fire button, so I knew its days were numbered. This has happened often before, even to my fav mouse, the ms intellimouse. What happens is the return spring of the affected button loses tension, work hardens over repeated use, and sends double clicks when only one is intended. This gets to be realllllly aggravating. Anyway, I have a few meece around to loan spare parts and thought hey, why not try some of the repair ideas instead of spending more money first.

Here are some vids on the technique most used to repair mice with button malfunctions;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8o4conOjPI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDoXMJyimDU

The vids show you the source of the issue, the microswitches that actuate most button controls on any given meece. Some microswitches are better than others, some will be rated to withstand several million clicks, some are barely up to the job when new.

My issue with the above videos is the repair technicians are simply retensioning the spring inside the microswitch, and that spring has already failed. I didn't want to reuse a switch that had already fatigued as the primary fire button of my game meece so I tried another tack.

That tack was to unsolder the least used microswitch in that meece and use that one to replace the faulty fire switch. There are three solder spots to hit on a given microswitch to unsolder and solder, and you can't get placement wrong on the pcb (printed circuit board) as the switch dealy is marked on the pcb like as if the switch was there on the board. I didn't need another meece for spare parts after all.

The least used microswitch in any of my meece is always the scroll wheel button, so I nicked that (all the microswitches in my meece are identical) and put it in place of the left click button. Most meece come apart very easily with just a screwdriver, but to use the soldering method of repair you have to have a soldering iron and solder, some soldering experience helps. If you don't have the tools or skills you can still use the method as shown in the vids that don't require iron or solder. Make sure you note what parts go where, the scroll wheel dealy has an optical encoder that is triggered by the passing of a shutter wheel, and that wheel can only go in the mouse one way - might help to take pics before you do any repair work.

Anopther issue some meece have is the actual plastic of the fire button, where it contacts the microswitch, becomes worn and will actually dish out. Some people use epoxy to fill the dish/depression in the plastic and then smooth the contact surface with some fine sand paper. I checked my meece and the plastic bits were unworn, so it was just the switch being bad, at least I hoped.
So I soldered the scroll wheel button in place of the fire button and vice versa, and oddly enough the scroll wheel button works fine, I wonder if the heat from soldering it stiffened the return spring or something so it works as it should.

I acknowledge the ghettoness of this repair, but replacing meece every year or so is expensive, this one cost me $80, and if I can bring it back from the dead for the cost of a few blobs of solder I'm gonna do it.

Anyway, just played some t2 and so far testing shows the meece is working fine, no double clicking or anything. This meece was bought at Frys back in 2008, so I used it to kill a lot of you in the duration, and now it can kill once again! When it goes bad next time I'll get a new meece or order some hi dolla microswitches and repair it the right way.
« Last Edit: October 18, 2017, 07:33:40 PM by Blakhart »
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