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Thyth
Apotheosis Incarnate

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75: October 16, 2014, 07:54:41 PM »
FYI, scheduling latency isn't the cause of issues with T2 on symmetric-multi-processing systems. Rather, it's the use of the CPU internal time stamp counter (RDTSC instruction). Some multi-processing systems don't make any attempt to keep time stamps synchronized between execution units (especially because it's just intended as a tick count, and not a high precision timer). Switching T2 to use HPET instead via the setPerfCounterEnable() script function resolves this issue because it actually uses a purpose specific high precision timer for the simulation.

The lack of synchronization of RDTSC results in the simulation jumping forward/backward in time which manifests as the jitter/latency. Cross execution context switches don't have a user noticeable impact.

Sarcastic, narcissistic, genius, resurrecting the game with brilliant strokes of wizardry.
Blakhart
Juggernaught
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76: October 17, 2014, 01:19:37 PM »
I think the setPerfCounterEnable() code was added to the engine in an update before hpet was released.
Be that as it may here it is enabled;
SetPerfCounterEnable(1);

and disabled;
SetPerfCounterEnable(0);

Try them both and see what way the game plays best. If you don't have the script already, just copy the string and name it timescalecheat.cs or something and place it into your base/scripts/autoexec folder.

I've no clue if this twitchyness was first noticed on dual Athlon and Pentium systems after that specific t2 update or before, but I'm pretty certain Pentium/Athlon systems didn't have hpet as many systems have today, wich could explain why having it enabled on Pentium or Athlon dualies would make the game jitter. Also, it wouldn't surprise me if scheduling had at least some influence on the matter. Few players had dual systems back in the day so it could have gone unnoticed for several years by the vast majority of players. It also has an effect upon servers not just clients. Add the file to your server and try it enabled and disabled to see if you can get creamy smoothness from, your server. Systems without hpet will want to run it disabled, hpet systems will likely run better with it enabled, just like clients.

To see if you have hpet in client or server in a windows system just look in your device manager/system devices. If present and activated it will show up in that list. Also you may have to check to see if it's enabled in bios, check the manual for your motherboard for details. This is for Vista and newer, Vista being first M$ OS to have hpet support. It may show up in device manager on xp systems and Server2003 but xp has no driver for it and won't use the timer.... so might as well disable it in bios for all systems running xp.

For fine tuning xp and 2k systems you might try the following;
"/usepmtimer
 The /usepmtimer switch specifies that the Windows XP operating system or the Windows Server 2003 operating system use the PM-TIMER timer settings instead of the Time Stamp Counter (TSC) timer settings if the processor supports the PM_TIMER settings.

 For more information about how to use the /usepmtimer switch, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
 895980

 Programs that use the QueryPerformanceCounter function may perform poorly in Windows Server 2003 and in Windows XP"

The above involves fooling around in the boot.ini, where you should be careful about poking around in its tender innards.

Also on a like note, check the status of any "threaded optimisation" in your vid card driver control panel if such is present.
Play the game with it enabled and disabled to see how it plays, then lock it down if one setting proves better than the other.
« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 02:10:37 PM by Blakhart »
GeEkOfWiReS1097
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77: October 19, 2014, 12:29:26 PM »
Yeah, I can agree about the onboard audio drivers... I've moved over to the HDMI audio that comes with my Graphics card. Noticeable difference.

If your problem can't be solved, you haven't dug deep enough.
Avoid re-posting a question that has been answered and we can prevent forum clutter:
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Blakhart
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78: November 08, 2014, 09:24:24 AM »
Okay, so I tried SLI again...
Screen flickering occurs on the login... and goes away after completing login.
The game begins to load...
And then the screen goes black and the infamous Windows Error ding goes off. Nvidia display is unable to continue and must close the application.

Kinda late for it but I just remembered there are several sli modes in nvid card setups to test. I had dual 7800gts and the game ran fine in any sli mode, so if you have issues try another mode, you'll find SLI performance mode in the driver control panel.
My system showed a bit of latency difference between the modes so try them all and see what plays best for you.
Here's a writeup on the various sli modes;
http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/graphics/916-nvidias-sli-an-introduction/?page=2
GeEkOfWiReS1097
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79: November 08, 2014, 05:15:25 PM »
Okay, so I tried SLI again...
Screen flickering occurs on the login... and goes away after completing login.
The game begins to load...
And then the screen goes black and the infamous Windows Error ding goes off. Nvidia display is unable to continue and must close the application.

Kinda late for it but I just remembered there are several sli modes in nvid card setups to test. I had dual 7800gts and the game ran fine in any sli mode, so if you have issues try another mode, you'll find SLI performance mode in the driver control panel.
My system showed a bit of latency difference between the modes so try them all and see what plays best for you.
Here's a writeup on the various sli modes;
http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/graphics/916-nvidias-sli-an-introduction/?page=2
Yeah, I went through each SLI mode and no dice. Each either tears terribly or the screen spazzes too much to even understand what I'm doing.

If your problem can't be solved, you haven't dug deep enough.
Avoid re-posting a question that has been answered and we can prevent forum clutter:
Search with me.
Blakhart
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80: November 15, 2014, 09:54:02 AM »
A word on monitor color temperature.

If your monitor seems to be weak in color you might try adjusting the color temperature control, most every monitor will have them, crt, lcd, etch a sketch, etc. Going from a 1080p monitor to an old 1440x900 lcd reveals the weak color rendering of the lcd to a surpising amount in my case. This control can be of benefit esdpecially for older monitors, or monitors not adjusted to the users desires. I find a setting of either "native" or "cool" being best in my 1440x900 lcd case.

Here's some further info on what it is and how to do it;
http://www.eizoglobal.com/library/basics/color_temperature_on_an_LCD_monitor/
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
http://ninedegreesbelow.com/photography/srgb-bad-monitor-profile.html
http://www.imaging-resource.com/ARTS/MONCAL/CALIBRATE.HTM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SRGB
Blakhart
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81: November 28, 2014, 09:17:33 AM »
A word on router firmware replacements.

If you'd like more control over you rooter, or simply to have functions the stock firmware doesn't expose or even have, you might be able to replace that firmware with some that does. Please keep in mind this depends upon if your specific rooter/version is supported by a replacement or not, of course.
There are three main players in rooter firmware replacements; ddwrt, tomato, and openwrt. These can be broken down into forks where coders have taken the basics of the firmware and added features they desired and have updated them over time, much like the linux os has been updated and maintained. Most of the firmwares will have a searchable db of rooter models they are known to support.

For ease of installation I recomend ddwrt, ddwrt may have firmwares for more models of rooter than most any other alternative firmware, and has many of the most desired features in a home rooter even in hardware-limited (meaning low flash memory and ram and/or cpu/radio chipset issues) rooters.
http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/index

Next, and my personal fav, is tomato. Very clean, lightweight, it seems to use least cpu time for operation than the others on the same rooter with the same settings. Has settings to provide for hardware defaults for output power and ack timing rather than arbitrary figures or no ability to allow the hardware to run at its designed in parameter.
http://tomatousb.org/

Openwrt is for the true linux geek, cmd line all the way. Well, maybe with some winscp help every once in a while. This firmware may offer the greatest challenge to get into operation as desired, so keep that in mind when choosing a firmware.
https://openwrt.org/

Pick a firmware, see if your rooter model and version number is supported (version number is very very very important) and if so, google that firmware and your specific rooter and version and see if there are any hangups noted in the google responses. If you choose to replace your rooters firmware, please use a ups (uninterruptible power supply) when flashing your rooter. When flashing, a power failure at pc or rooter or likely both can brick your rooter. And what's a brick good for?

Some helpfull vids;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvmAJn1UIME
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1GjZedUlbg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMWxLyFOXN4
Blakhart
Juggernaught
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82: December 03, 2014, 01:24:25 PM »
A word on TV and TA...

If you play either of these versions of Tribes you might be interested in some tweak apps to tweak your game a bit. Tweak meaning in this case visual image quality or fps enhancing tweaks.

For TV there's the game of course;
http://tribesrevengeance.com/
If you already have the game installed you can use this dll to get it going with the new master server;
http://tribesrevengeance.com/downloads/revengeance/Engine.dll
And for TV image quality tweaking there's the TV ini editor wich has disappeared from innernets but I can email a copy to any interested. Otherwise if you know what you're doing you can simply find the inis and edit them by hand.

For TA you've got this tool;
http://www.paullinebarger.net/files/TAAGC.zip

It helps to know what you're doing when editing inis, and it's a good idea to make backups before you go atweaking.
Here's some food for tweaking thought;
http://www.reddit.com/r/Tribes/comments/1ga241/ini_compilation_thread/
Blakhart
Juggernaught
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83: December 08, 2014, 11:42:33 AM »
A word on innernet warfare;

If your innernets is acting slow, your region, or the entire world, may be fighting a cyberwar. To see if you're under attack simply view this page;
http://www.akamai.com/html/technology/dataviz1.html
Well, it won't tell you if you're under attack specifically, just what countries are experiencing attacks. There's also a generic latency display and useage display for your enjoyment.
Blakhart
Juggernaught
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84: December 14, 2014, 06:14:20 AM »
A word on egos and online gaming;

There are several online personalities that frequent t2 servers that have anger and ego issues. You know who they are. Most of them will end up with twice or more the score of any normal player every single map - wich should tell all that something is wrong - and will still complain when their team loses. They will also blame their team for the loss and not accept the fact that they were, yes indeed, defeated along with their team. While I'm pretty sure these asshats are literaly cheating their asses off, there's some deep psych issues here. To the asshats I say this is you;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJye229QbVs
This is what you look like.




If you think yourself unfortunate to have to face them every time you play, just consider the sad fate of their friends and family.
rJay
Scout

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85: December 14, 2014, 12:04:38 PM »
Oh, I agree! 100%

Romans 1:16
Blakhart
Juggernaught
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86: January 14, 2015, 11:51:53 AM »
A word on qos;

If you have a router that supports even rudimentary qos (quality of service) you may be able to improve your gaming, especially in a net where there are several users concurrently active such as is the case in the typical home. If there is a qos feature in the router, you can enable it if disabled (wich is the default state in some routers) and then check the classifications section for qos to see what is there by default. The classifications will show something like protocol tcp/udp, tcp only, udp only, etc etc and may give names to each service such as p2p and so on. There may be a classification for dns and pings and several others.

 I simply went and deleted all of them and added one for udp, any port number, and set it to highest priority.
Most fps games use udp networking protocol (wich is connectionless and has less overhead than tcp so it's a bit faster on and off the net stack - hence its use for fps games) for the actual game so all outgoing udp packets to any port will have the absolute highest priority in the router and get serviced before tcp, said tcp being what most web users are sending out on the network. This provides for less outbound latency in gaming where the net may have several users, and the non-udp users will notice little if any degradation in service. I selected any port since not every game uses the same ports and I don't want to have to set rules for every game when a simple single rule will cover all udp packets. More rules means more mem taken and more cpu time to apply the rule to each outbound packet. This is important because consumer routers are often cpu and memory limited and every help you can give them will result in better performance overall. So less is more here. I then set the default class in basic qos settings to high, and set the the qdisc scheduler to pfifo, since sfq employs a stochastic, deterministic meathod to prioritising packets, Pfif seems to get stuff in and out faster. After I set the router up and rebooted, I went and tried a pingtest online somewhere I usualy get a 28ms ping. It now tested 11ms, lowest I've ever seen. It makes for play that that is just a bit nicer.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quality_of_service
http://tomatousb.org/tut:using-tomato-s-qos-system
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Quality_of_Service

These settings will be dependant upon the make and model of router and its firmware. Please consult the router manual for specifics. While in there you can save some router cpu time and memory by disabling services you don't use, such as upnp and others. Please research these services before disabling them so you don't cut your nose off in spite of your face.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2015, 10:13:13 AM by Blakhart »
Blakhart
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87: February 23, 2015, 10:48:44 AM »
A word on compatibility mode;
I have a number of older games that run less than well or not at all on Vista, a stripped down version of wich is on my game box, so I tried compatability mode and the games now play as they should. As a test I placed t2 in compatability mode for 2k and the game seems to play fine and less ues may result, if any were due to being run under vista. Win7 and newer os may have more built in automatic support for the older games that refused to run on vista without compatability mode as this lack of older game/app support was a major complaint with vista users. Most of my games ran fine on 2k and xp so compatability mode went unused. Under vista and newer os, such drastic changes have been made in the os that games written for the 98 era have tough going and compatability mode actually does something now unlike with xp. Anyway, if you've an app or game that doesn't want to run or play nice, it's there if you need it.



http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/make-older-programs-run#1TC=windows-vista
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/what-is-program-compatibility#1TC=windows-vista

The important box to check in compatability mode seems to be Disable visual themes as well as run as admin.
http://superuser.com/questions/694734/what-does-compatibility-option-disable-visual-themes-do
« Last Edit: October 11, 2018, 07:00:31 PM by Blakhart »
Blakhart
Juggernaught
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88: May 27, 2015, 08:23:34 PM »
A word on FilterMsg.vl2

This is a nice script, it takes the kill messages and removes them from the chat hud, placing them in a corner by themselves where they can't bother anyone. I noted a less glitchy game after setting it to not timeout the messages but to let them scroll till they're bumped by new kill messages. You can edit it as a txt file wich is found in your prefs folder, oddly enough named FilterPrefs.txt.

So if editing by hand one would look for this line;
FilterMsg.timeOut = 0;
and set it to zero as it is here


If you don't have the script and must have it you can find it, along with a plethora of others, right here;
http://spinfusor.ch/tribes2/scripts/Scripts/

Blakhart
Juggernaught
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89: June 15, 2015, 04:48:55 PM »
A word on power supplies.......


I've long held that the single most important piece of hardware in any pc is its psu. Its quality determines how long it will last and how it treats the rest of the hardware in your system, as well as how stable that system runs. Skrimping at the psu is seldom a wise choice. I should know.

Anyway, the psu that has resided in my game system lo these last few years was one I purchased used in good condition, an adequate brand and adequate wattage. Unfortunately I let the smoke out of it a few days ago. Solid state electronics are imparted with a finite amount of smoke from the factory, held within the confines of said devices, if you let this smoke out not only is it nigh unpossible to put it back in, the device is usualy rendered inoperative in the act. Oh but I should have known something was amiss in psu land, it gave me fair warning, on more than one occasion.

At boot, when messing about in the bios options as I am wont to do, I check the hardware status menu, wich tells us important items of information such as the voltage of various voltage rails in the psu as well as cpu temps, fan speeds, etc.

I noted that the 12v rail wasn't stable at all, it was varying quickly from say 12v to 12.55, then back to 12, then to whatever. It normaly is around 12.5 to 12.9 volts or so and should be absolutely stable. I ignored it as the system showed no untoward symptoms, and this is where it got me. Suddenly the screen would go black in the middle not of an epic t2 match but looking at a static webpage of text and not come around no matter what mouse or kb dance I did, and it also stopped showing the bios log in screen, waiting for windows to load before giving me a display. I considered that my display was at fault, not so. So in trying another display to narrow down the cause of the malady still no bios at boot and the black screen of oblivion made itself manifest.

I did manage to get the system to show me the bios screen and I went to the hardware status menu to see if the voltage issue was strill present. Not only was it present it was worse, now the 12v rail was a rock steady 11 volts.
Pretty sure I had my culprit, the psu was flaking out.

After noting I was at a steady 11v rather than 12v as it should be I continued using the system until the smoke came out all of a sudden, and not just a little bit of smoke, a gallon of it at least. It smelled horrid. Anyway, I pulled the power and got the system unbuttoned looking for evidence of motherboard issues, but it seems the psu alone was expired.

So a search began for a localish psu supplier, and one was found a reasonable distance away. I looked at the various psus on their webpage and decided a 65o watt psu would do, and I ignorantly drove down to the store, 60 miles one way, to obtain it. I got to the store and noted they didn't have that model and brand I was interested in but they had another one with a familiar brand so I opted to fall for their bait and switch.

When I got home with my prize I decided to look over the reviews for this exact psu and was glad I did, as most people recommend you use it as a doorstop rather than a psu. many users had literal fires, others had doa, others had it die from 3 days to 3 weeks from installation. If it was only one or two reviewers who had issue with this psu I'd keep them in mind but use the psu. Since there were a plethora of them i knew I had purchased a lemon. Here's the lemon;
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-TR-600-ATX12V-EPS12V-Computer/dp/B007W7ZWHK/ref=sr_1_2/184-4306538-9917867?ie=UTF8&qid=1434415018&sr=8-2&keywords=thermaltake+tr-600+tr2+600w

I read story after story of failed psus and decided this psu was not going to have a home in my pc, so back it went to the store for refund. Luckily, Best Buy had a 750w Corsair on sale, with Corsair being one of the most respected names in pc parts such as memory and psus. For about the same price as the one that could set my house aflame I got one of the best in its wattage;
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/cx-series-cx750m-modular-atx-power-supply-750-watt-80-plus-bronze-certified-modular-psu

So, before you settle on just any psu that comes along when you are desperate for a psu, shop around so you don't drive a few hundred miles wasting gas or buy one that can set your home or at least your pc aflame.

By the way here's a handy psu ranking site;
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?108088-Official-XS-Power-Supply-Ranking-Phase-I

This psu will allow me to run my gtx280 (over 200w alone) rather than the gtx260 (uses less than 200w) I have been using for the last few years, and placing it all into a much larger case will ensure decent airflow and cooling. The gtx280 is a dated design but it has phenominal memory bandwidth for aa and aniso performance and  has more than enough power and memory for any version of Tribes i wish to play. The 280 would be pressing a 600w psu a bit hard, the 750 will loaf along, and better yet it has a single 12v rail of some 60 amps rather than the assinine dual 12v rails found in many psus.
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